Cusco, Peru: A City in the Andes

There are very few city vistas in the world as incredibly breathtaking as that of Cusco. It seems that the first inhabitants teamed up with God to build their town in harmony with the creation of the Andes. You never forget about the world´s longest mountain chain; you are reminded of it walking up steep streets and staircases that would make San Francisco jealous. The roads are somewhat unique in and of themselves: you won´t find any pavement, but you will find stray dogs that patrol those quiet roads, hardly wide enough for a single Prius. Comedically, many of those very narrow roads are labeled as “two-way,” creating the occasional stalemate for drivers. At least I can be a safe spectator on the sidewalk, if you can call it that. Having to dodge those rearview side mirrors by hiding in quaint, mom-and-pop shops always keeps you on your toes.

The locals are proud of their Incan heritage, as they should be, given that the city was the capital of the Incan Empire in the 15^th and 16^th centuries. Most fascinating to me is the local dress, specifically the womens´outfits. They wear hats that look like a mix between what would be found in Lincoln´s closet and on the heads Thanksgiving pilgrims. They carry their children – and their groceries – in colorful blankets that remind me of kangaroo pouches, but on their backs. Oh, and the hair – always black, and always in two ponytails.

Most tourists to this southeast Peruvian city are simply making the required transit to see Machu Picchu, an archeological world wonder that can inspire even the most veteran explorers. The site is only accessibly by a 3.5 hour train ride to Aguas Calientes, which sits at the foot of the mountain. But because of the extreme altitude, some travelers (as in my case), decide to spend a few tranquil days in Cusco to better acclimate before starting the final leg of their journey.

The altitude of Cusco is a very real concern to every visitor of every age, unless you call Mount Everest your hometown. The city sits at about 11,000 feet, which is about 11,000 feet higher than Havana and Singapore, where I have lived for the past two years. The air feels thinner, and that becomes clear when you´re out of breath after only climbing a single flight of stairs. My hostel sits mid-way up a hill overlooking the city, and every traveler comes back to their rooms as obnoxious mouth-breathers. After three days, I started to feel more adjusted, but I still collapse on my bed every time I come back from a walk around the lively city square. Thank goodness Machu Picchu is only set at 8,000 feet.

To help with the altitude, the locals swear by a local tea called mate de coca, even though any resemblance to the Argentine yerba mate is in name only. It is prepared by adding raw coca leaves, native to South America, to a cup of steaming water. It is supposed to be sweet, and often accompanies breakfast or afternoon conversation. 

The only problem is that it is illegal in the United States, and it will make you test positive on a urinalysis for cocaine. This is a real issue for anyone in the no-second-chances on the drug policy of the US military. From the one medical journal I read, it isn´t addicting, and it doesn´t get you high. Cocaine as a drug is prepared through unnatural scientific processes, which uses unusually high concentrations of extractions from the same coca leaves that are mixed as tea, which only requires a couple leaves. The fact that it is illegal in my home country kind of comes as a shock: reputable hotel chains, major grocery stores, and tourist restaurants sell the stuff and advertise it as if it were Lipton. I could be wrong, but I imagine popping on a drug test for cocaine after having coca tea is kind of like popping for opium after having a muffin. I decided to play it safe and stick to my water and orange juice. I also had Starbucks.